The unexpected exceeds many expectations while traveling. There have been moments when we notice things or something happens and we blink and think “Wow, we never thought we'd see something like that.”
Exhibit A: After loading onto a very nice, air conditioned bus for an overnight trip across Malaysia, a Muslim cleric gets on the bus, says a very lengthy prayer (in Arabic, we presume), then walks down the aisle collecting money. Virtually everyone on the bus gives him money, except for us. He stops at our seats, looks at us for a while, says some more stuff, then continues on. Did he put a hex on us? Does he hate us because he knows we are American? Was he for real? We'll never know.
Exhibit B: We spent a few days at the Perhentian Islands, in the very northeast corner of Malaysia. One fine day, while swimming and sitting on the beach reading, a very large (and I mean LARGE, well over two meters long) monitor lizard cruises down to the beach, walks around, then goes for a refreshing dip, swimming through the water. The thought of a large, swimming, carnivorous reptile is a little worrisome while snorkeling.
Exhibit C: Who knew we'd be surrounded by large, sunburnt Russians on the Andaman coast in Thailand? In places, everything is translated into Russian. The televisions in bars are tuned to Russian programming. They must have good airfare deals this time of year.
Our traveling style these days is at a much quicker pace, staying in one place for typically no more than three nights or so, so we have spent many hours on busses, trains, and boats. From KL, we went to Perhentian Kecil, a lovely, if not “backpacker” style island with insanely clear water and fabulous snorkeling complete with beachside bars, thumping beats, and abundant booze (rare for Malaysia). From there, we scooted back across the country, on another overnight bus, then ferry, to the northwest corner to Georgetown on Pulau Penang, known for its Chinatown, Little India, and abundance of street food.
The goal was to be out of Malaysia before the start of Ramadan, the very important month of reflection and fasting for Muslims. During this time, Muslims only eat or drink one hour before sunrise, then again after sunset. Many eateries are closed during the day, which is quite dicey when you are (read: Chris is) hungry! However, although the majority of Malaysia is Muslim there is also a large Chinese population that turns out some exceptional food. Thank god for the Chinese! We left Malaysia on the second day of Ramadan, with full bellies.
Our basic routine has changed from “eat, sleep, surf” to “eat, eat, eat” for we are in Thailand and the food is incredible, cheap and abundant. Piles of Pad Thai, satay, noodle soup, crispy pork, and of course panang curry. We literally eat two to three lunches a day, moving from one food cart to the next, spending two dollars at each place. Chris' vocabulary has been reduced to “I think I'm ready for another noodle bowl.” Although it is generally the low tourist season for most of Thailand, we find it to be quite developed and touristy, something we are trying to get used to. There are some advantages to this, particularly that transportation is very organized and it is easy to figure out how to get from point A to point B. The downside is that things are more expensive and the locals hassle you to take a taxi, eat at their restaurant, braid your hair into tiny painful cornrows (never in my life will I do this), or whatever it is that they are selling.
The seas on the Andaman coast are rough, but what that means for us… WAVES. We did our homework and made it to a “surf spot” in Thailand and lo and behold, got two much needed wonderful little surf sessions today. We rented boards (we left ours in Sri Lanka for a month) from a goofy British dude named Lee and spent the morning surfing with him in what we would now call marginal surf. Sometimes it doesn't take world class waves to make your day. After not surfing for three weeks, we realize how much surfing has become a part of who we are. Withdrawal therapy may be necessary when we return to landlocked Central Oregon.