I’ll admit it; we are slackers in the world of blogging. We’ve reached the final week of our six months in Mexico, and there’s not much to report, other than more sun, more surf, more cold beers, and many more friends. We’ve posted up at one of our favorite spots and the surf has been good and the Internet connection has been bad. This is a good thing, a very good thing.
Our first night in Mexico, we met a guy named Bobby who surfs regularly with our friend Joey in Huntington Beach. That night under the stars, we sat by the campfire listened to a CD of Ray Barbee and Tommy Guererro (If you are not familiar, I suggest checking it out. They are both incredible skaters and musicians.). When we returned from our surf the next day, Bobby was gone, but the CD sat on our bumper. It was our first experience (on this trip at least) of the human generosity that we have come upon in our travels. In our last few days on the Mexican playa, we have spent time surfing, talking and drinking beer with some of our dearest old and new friends in Mexico. Over the years, these folks have truly shown us that living in a tent/trailer/van/palapa on the beach is the way to go. Juan, Ashley and Rocket, Super G and T, Dave, Mark, Josh and Mo, Katie and Mike, Every Wave Dave, the Limeys, Jaimie, La Familia, and others, you all rock.
We spent the last week of February with our friends Newman and Chelsea, which was a total blast. They were good sports for trusting us to take them to some special places in Mexico. Alas, as March rolled around, we started to see the tried and true south swells that bring pumping surf to Mainland Mexico. We’ve been longboarding, shortboarding and everything in between, enjoying the warm water and long rides. We are camped in front of the local wave (we’ll call this “Beach X” – sorry, no real locations now), but have been taking day trips to another nearby break “Beach Y”. Beach Y has a more advanced wave, and we’ve had fun challenging ourselves every few days. Beach Y also has a “right”, and for us regular footed surfers, we are stoked to surf frontside in Mainland!
The surf part of this trip has brought the highs and the lows. Wow, what a roller coaster of emotions tied into the simple act (or not-so-simple) act of surfing. One day, upon getting out of the water I think “Oh my god! I can do this! I can really surf now! I’m catching waves, turning, doing maneuvers, lookin’ GOOD out there. This is the best thing ever!” The very next day, I kid you not, can bring “WTF? I’ve spent the last five months pursuing this stupid activity, and I just tripped over my feet out there. I just got worked. What is going on? What is my problem? Do I know how to do this?” We are happy to report though, that the latter happens less often as we move through this journey of surfing. The lesson here: Impermanence. Just like the tide, all things ebb and flow and nothing is permanent.
We are currently in Patzcuaro, making the long drive back to Oregon and will eventually have to face what we have been avoiding for a very long time…. shoes. And what’s worse than shoes? Socks. But we will have a few weeks to unpack, pack, see family and friends, try to avoid drinking too much Oregon microbrew, and hopefully not freeze to death. (For any readers not in Central Oregon, April is still considered winter.)
One of the golden rules of surfing is “Never leave good surf.” That means if the surf is good, you better have a really good reason to get out of the water (examples: you are bleeding somewhere or your house is on fire). While it’s painful for us to leave this great surf, we are also ready to embark on our next leg of our travels to SE Asia. And I promise that we will do our absolute best to keep the posts coming and the stoke going strong!