Well, “A Year in Trim” means we are surfing, surfing, surfing for a year, and we are trying our best to hold true to that. There is a passage in “In Search of Captain Zero” (which, if you are looking for a solid surfing adventure story, I highly recommend this book) where the author, Alan Weisbecker, expounds upon “the glide”. The glide is the moment in surfing where you feel the weightlessness of the wave propelling you forward and down. You get the glide as you take off on a wave as well as throughout the wave each time you make a turn or trim to the wave. For me, the glide is the drug, the thing that keeps you coming back for more, that next hit to make you feel whole again. Ya feel me, yo? (Sorry, that was an interjection from “The Wire”.)
Here’s the cool thing about Baja right now – we are the only people in the water. To date, we’ve had one day surfing with three other guys, and yesterday we met another guy in the water. Otherwise, it’s just the two of us and the local seal (“lobo del mar” – en espanol) that hangs with us every day at the break. The surfing has been great for the last two days, as we have gotten a nice south swell in this area. Imagine a 150-yard right point break all to yourself…. yep, that’s it. How can it be this good already, only four hours from San Diego? But we have supplies for a few more days so we’ll stay for a bit, and then move on, because perhaps it does get better.
Is there anything better than an adventure of the unknown? I’ve always had this strong longing for discovery, but in the world of the Internet (and specifically Google Earth), is there much to still be discovered? I mean, how exciting to be the “first” surfers to discover a spot for the first time, cresting a hill to see perfect waves peeling into a sandy cove? For clarification, we are not proponents of telling the world about every accessible surf spot that we have seen. Some of you Bendites know about our vague descriptions of where we go in Mexico. However, everywhere we’ve been has been written up in guidebooks and on maps, so for now, we will talk about these places as they are. However, if we find “the spot” that is not on the map, in the book, or on the Internet, our lips are sealed, and you’ll have to find it yourselves.