Way back in February, while I (Chris) was surfing on the web, I found Addict Surfboards, based in San Diego. After talking to Micah on the phone, I was convinced this guy would be building our short boards which we would need for our trip to Indonesia where the surfing is more suited to riding the shorter boards designed for more aggressive waves. Micah was so stoked on our pending adventure and totally understood and relished the chance to build us boards which would take us through what we hope will be a huge progression in our surfing as we go from pretty beginner surfers to seeking out some gnarly reef break waves.
The best thing about Micah is how personable and stoked on life he is. For those of you that know our good friend “The Vulture” (“Our Framebuilder”) you have a good starting point for knowing Micah, who we now only half jokingly refer to as “Our Shaper”. These two share a real treasure of getting to build people their toys for their chosen passions, and they both take great pride in the joy they bring to us with their craft. A pretty cool gig.
So, on Tuesday, after 6 months of waiting, we went to the factory to pick up our new boards. His and hers (so cute) custom made for each of us. We showed up at the factory, met Micah and his crew and got the full royal treatment. I guess, surprisingly, its not every day that a couple shows up with a Baja-prepped rig heading off on a year of surfing. First thing of course, was grabbing onto the new boards, complete with custom paint jobs which we designed for ourselves. Katy’s board is, of course, cool artsy and micro. They’re both so light and we’re stoked. Micah then spent a couple hours with us showing off his shop, purposefully designed for shaping, painting and glassing boards. We were impressed to see the acetone recycler and other measures they have taken to reduce the impact of our new toys.
After leaving the Addict factory with our new boards we headed to Mission Beach to stay at “Ducey’s On The Lake” with our friend Dan Ducey (Dan is a Sales Rep for Metolius Climbing, where Chris used to work). Dan has a rough gig as well, as he lives on the beach with arguably one the one of the best boardwalks in Cali. We arrive and find some nice surf and building swell. Gulp. We quickly setup new boards and paddled out, knowing that the boards are tiny and we’ve got a long way to go to proficient at surfing these things. Rough job, but oh am I looking forward to all the spills and thrills on the path to being a surfer.
Speaking of being a surfer – Today Katy and I were talking…when do you call yourself a surfer? For me I think I’ll claim the moniker tomorrow. Since I grew up in Southern California and my parents took me to the beach as a little kid, I always thought of a “surfer” as more of a personality trait rather than a skill. For that reason, the first day I stood up on a surfboard a couple years ago in Mexico did not make me a surfer. In the same way, donning 5mm wetsuit in December in Oregon didn’t really make me a surfer either. However, tomorrow we cross the Mexican border, really setting off on something we have both fantasized about many times in life: setting off on a year of the surfing lifestyle. We’re packed, loaded and finally its time.